Edit (2010-05-20): “hl=all” no longer works. Assuming you don’t want pirate-speak (“hl=xx-pirate” which still does), I rewrote the post.
If you can’t stand the new clutter on Google, there’s a blog devoted to reverting (the Opera userjs there worked):
http://theoldgoogle.blogspot.com/
To disable suggestions, make this your homepage.